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most others, and allows repeated solderless disconnection and reconnection, which I need a few times per year to reconfigure my transformers for different conditions of usage. In the right hand column, you have four values which are design decisions which you can vary somewhat. This big wooden bobbin got fitted with a hand crank, and mounted on a steel tube serving as axle, which was clamped to the workbench. The laminations should be thin, and reasonably well insulated from each other, to reduce eddy currents to an insignificant value. Distributed throughout the core, I occassionally insert two consecutive E's from the same side. The loss in the wire instead increases with the square of the current taken from the transformer, and the value calculated by the sheet is for the full rated current. The 100mm width given in the example is a pretty large lamination. So, I suggest to start with a value chosen from the rules above, and then calculate the transformer based on this value, analyzing the losses, heating, voltage drop, efficiency, and.

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The number of turns isn't rounded off, so you will have to do that, because you can't wind a fraction of a turn. When you solder these connection, make absolutely sure that the enameled wire stripped properly in the solder bath. It's very likely that this smaller wire size would accomodate 16 turns per layer, thus allowing you to wind the 48 turns in three nice, clean, complete layers, and using up a little bit less space than calculated by the sheet. The photo shows an antique speaker field coil, mounted in my winding machine. I usually do this in the same way for every transformer: I place the winding assembly on one side, sex dating in Dunedin then I start inserting E laminations from alternating sides. In such a situation, it's great to know how long the total winding is, so that you can cut the strands and twist them together, before you start winding. Such was the case in 2008, when I had to build two transformers for 10kVA each, starting from scratch. The pieces are cut to size using a sharp knife (X-acto or the like and glued together with cyanoacrylate adhesive (instant bonder).

To make a typical transformer, you need the iron laminations for the core, enameled copper wire of several different diameters for the windings, a bobbin (or some material to make one insulating material to apply between wire layers, between windings, around the whole winding assembly, and on exposed. After removing all those ropes, the winding assembly looks like this. I didn't do a particularly neat caulking job, but the point was to get the edges sealed and protected, not to do a work of art. I unwind coils by pulling off the wire while having the thing spin in the machine, so that the turns counter in the machine will do the pesky job of keeping count.

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